The Hotel Hermitage Monte-Carlo reveals the opening of L'Abysse Monte-Carlo
3/7/2024
Les restaurants
A new gastronomic chapter with chefs Yannick Alléno and Yasunari Okazaki
With a first Parisian address, crowned with two stars, at the Pavillon Ledoyen, Yannick Alléno and his accomplice the Sushi Master Yasunari Okazaki, are moving a little closer to the Mediterranean Sea with L'Abysse Monte-Carlo, which will be inaugurated on July 9. In a setting designed by Laurence Bonnel-Alléno and the duo of architects from Rowin'Atelier, the two chefs will develop the Art of Sushi, guided by the four elements. A hotel for connoisseurs, the Hotel Hermitage Monte-Carlo will thus bring together two top-flight gastronomic addresses in its setting.
L'Abysse: the fusion of two skills, the mastery of the four elements
The concept of L'Abysse was born in 2018 from the meeting between two aesthetes, each mastering a unique know-how. On the one hand, Chef Yannick Alléno, and the modernity brought to French cuisine, with the work of sauces and extractions in particular; on the other hand, Sushi Master Yasunari Okazaki, custodian of Japanese tradition, master of time and gesture.
Because sushi made according to the rules of the art is never really raw, it has benefited from the “cuisine of time”: a crucial maturation that can last from a few hours to several days depending on the size of the fish. L'Abysse thus brings together four elements resulting from a complementary duo: on the one hand, the land of the Monegasque hinterland where the vegetables come from, the fire of cooking at the right temperature and the extraction techniques developed by Chef Yannick Alléno; on the other hand, the control of the water and air contained in each sushi; on the other hand, the control of the water and the air contained in each sushi, thanks to the sensitivity and purity of the movements of Chef Yasunari Okazaki.
For L'Abysse Monte-Carlo, chef Okazaki has fully listened to nature and the neighbouring Mediterranean, seeking to become its humble interpreter. “I need to feel, to touch, to get to know this new territory in order to apprehend it without betraying it”, says Chef Yasunari Okazaki.
The art of sushi
Yasunari Okazaki sublimates the art of sushi, and each of his gestures tends to respect the local fish. Its knife is adapted to each type of fish meat: white fish with firm flesh in thin slices, goldfish in thicker slices. Everything is sensation: the weight of the rice in your hand, to grasp the right quantity and to feel the humidity; the right amount of pressure to be exerted to form the nigiri by gently pressing the fish against the rice. Yasunari Okazaki uses Sasanishiki rice slightly flavored with kombu and previously seasoned with a secret mixture of vinegar, salt, and sugar, then finished with a nikiri sauce based on soy sauce and flambé sake applied with a brush. Marine pieces then emerge that can be enjoyed in the continuity of the master's movement, without waiting, to maintain their energy and perfect texture.
To respond harmoniously to the variety of nigiris, the desserts of Pastry Chef Maxime Vaslin are designed as “delicacies”, all in freshness and lightness.
L'Abysse Monte-Carlo is like a haiku (Japanese poem, a reflection of the seasons) dedicated to the Mediterranean, which takes place over the course of an Omakase menu, combining power and delicacy. A menu supported by great wines drawn from the cellars of the Hotel de Paris Monte-Carlo and rare sakes, selected by the establishment's sommeliers, creating a memorable experience that resonates well beyond the first bite.
Tradition, Innovation and Sustainability
L'Abysse Monte-Carlo is the culmination of 40 years of cooking. Sushi, which is so delicate and so simple in appearance, is nevertheless particularly complex: the choice of fish, the “cooking of time” and the preparation of rice are all meticulous processes that require years of teaching and application for a deep and perfect understanding.
Resulting from local and responsible fishing, the fish are caught in accordance with their reproductive cycles to preserve the various species. Chef Yasunari works closely with fishermen who practice targeted sustainable fishing methods, and ikejime to preserve fish flesh intact. Beauty and respect for the product are essential in the art of sushi. Spring, summer, autumn and winter fish, Chef Yasunari Okazaki changes the menu according to the seasons and the fishermen's catch.
A philosophy illustrated in the restaurant by the gyotaku technique. Developed by fishermen, this technique once allowed them to keep a memory of their catch, by applying ink to the fish before applying it to washi paper. In this way they kept the imprint. At L'Abysse, this memorable imprint is the one left to the customer, in memory of the fish tasted the same day.
“We want to push the boundaries of the sea by looking for the most unlikely fish. In line with Japanese philosophy, each product taken is a gift that nature gives us, and that we must honor. Real marine works are then born, masterpieces in their own right.” Yannick Alléno
A mental and gustatory sanctuary
Created by Laurence Bonnel-Alléno, accompanied by the duo of architects Rowin'Atelier, the place inspires an immediate serenity that transports guests into a timeless universe. Varied textures and combined materials, such as wood, marble, marble, travertine, travertine, velvet, and ceramic, invite tactile exploration, while lines that are sometimes soft and curved, sometimes strong and rigid, evoke perpetual movement. As a director, Laurence Bonnel-Alléno infuses Abysse Monte-Carlo with contemporary Japanese inspiration, creating a haven where the mind can escape and fully enjoy the culinary experience, in a soothing and refined atmosphere. In absolute clarity contrasting with L'Abysse's notions of depth, the place is a breath of fresh air. The artistic dimension completes the experience, with a masterful wall by William Coggin, chandeliers by Célia Bertrand, and the work of new designers such as Silver Sentimenti and Rino Claessens.
Behind a refined door, the entrance is designed as an “airlock” through which customers enter a new universe. Appealing to the eye instantly, the central bar invites you to sit in one of its 10 seats, face to face with the Sushi Master. This proximity is essential to the virtual concomitance between dropping off the sushi and tasting it, which can be found in the small room that seats only 24 people.
“I discovered Japan at the age of 20 and it was an extraordinary change of scenery for me. There I discovered tastes that were completely unknown to me. Since then, I have been back forty times, having the chance to be guided on site by fine experts. Coming to Monte Carlo means enjoying local and sustainable fishing directly. I wanted this place to be a sanctuary, where every bite is vibrant. It is a cuisine of the moment, which reflects the encounter between two men.” Yannick Alléno.
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